Tuesday, 4 September 2007

The ladies of Segur

One fine Saturday morning in Geneva, Antonia awoke with a hangover. In a different apartment in Geneva, Alice awoke and tore herself away from the Bavarian. She trundled over to Antonia’s house and packed her into the car for a drive to the country. Soon the girls left Switzerland and entered France. Six hours later, and after taking the non-toll roads, they arrived in Segur le Chateau.

As the VW pootled into Segur, Chris and I were ready and waiting, with glasses of rose. Antonia’s hangover subsided immediately. The girls toured the house and Chris soon developed height-envy. Both Antonia and Alice, could clear all of the low beams without ducking. Clearly, medieval French houses are well suited to petite Canadian women.

Having two Canadians staying in Segur we thought it best we show them our outdoor delights. We took them, a picnic basket and a couple of bottles of rose to our favorite lake, Rufiac. Bathed in spectacular sunshine we enjoyed a substantial amount of cheese and wine, and in depth discussions about the relative merits of Derick and Clive’s “Get the Horn” video. We also found some time to swim across the lake.

In the summer, the night market is the centre of Segur. It attracts locals, tourists, loads of kids and miscellaneous village canines. Antonia, Alice, Chris and I arrived early to ensure we snared the good seats, raspberries and wine. We sat as close as possible to the stage, as Chris has grown fond of French cover bands that play Status Quo, and enjoyed the market produce. Things got a litte strange when two small girls came running towards Alice shouting. They explained whilst we’d been enjoying our cheese, a local, mad, black, fluffy dog, had bolted past the table and cocked it’s leg on our basket of food sitting on the grass. Looking down at the basket it was clear our basket did contain both food and urine. The culprit was nowhere in sight. We laughed about it for the next few hours... and Alice insited the basket could be decontainated and enjoy many future markets.

As the sun went down and the band ran out of songs, we bribed the wine seller for one last bottle and headed back to Jeanne de Albret. We finished off the evening with a courtyard disco. Entry was allowed through the laneway door, to those who answered the question “who’s got the funk”.

Kate, Ben and the land of funk

Our first visitors, Ben and Kate, came all the way from Australia. Enroute to Segur they were ill advised on where to change trains and so disembarked in the Dordogne. By the time we’d read the map and found out way to the station, they’d found a bar across the street and were enjoying some beers in the sunshine.

After a tour of the house Chris was quick to show Ben his drill, and fortuitously Ben was enthusiastic about forming a DIY partnership. They started simply, by Frenching up the house a bit, with hanging baskets. It seemed no job was too small. After much dinner table conversations filled with plumbing theories, due to the constant organic stench emanating from the bathroom, the boys got to work. Chris was sure the job would take bravery and the only way to start was to dismantle the entire shower. Sensible Ben, advised there is a fine line between bravery and stupidity and quickly became foreman of the “Fine Line” partnership. Although a wide diameter mouldy pipe was identified and contained, the shower is no longer structurally sound, the smell remains.

To thank Ben and Kate for all their DIY efforts we set off for a lakeside picnic and some swimming. Ben and Chris set themselves the task of establishing the depth of the lake. Kate and I basked in the sun. Ben and Kate also attended the opening of Segur’s newest (and only) nightspot “1 etage”, in our courtyard. The opening night began late afternoon, to take full advantage of the spectacular sunshine. Old school funk was played. Gin and tonic was served. Villagers, mostly over 80, watched from their windows. And according to village rumour, many were impressed by our fervor for dance!